Help, my pool tile is falling off!! Or what causes cracks in pool and spa tiles?

"Please give me an estimate to reattach a few cracked tiles" is a common phone request we get. Usually the client indicates that a few tiles have cracked or fallen off, and are either at the bottom of the pool or have been netted out over several months and kept for re-installation. As I return these calls I always let the customer know that cracked, loose or dislodged tiles are usually the sign of some underlying condition. Plain and simply a well installed pool tile does not typically fall off. Often a loose tile involves a horizontal crack about 2 inches below the coping and extending visibly for anywhere from just a few tiles to the entire waterline of the pool or spa. Below are 2 photos of just such a tile at the spa waterline of a recent pool remodel we did for a customer. In the  first picture below you can see a crack in the pool structure behind the tile.

This crack was so deep I could bury my entire index finger into it

In the this next picture you can also clearly see tree roots growing through the crack. It would be easy to assume that the roots had somehow forced their way through the concrete and pushed the tiles off, but that is not the case.

Here we see root hairs extending through the pool wall indicating the crack reaches the earth on the far side

As you can see in the following 5 pictures taken as we pulled off the pool coping, the mortar bed under the pool coping surrounding the entire pool was cracked at the same level. Tree roots were found in some areas but other areas were root-free.

After removing the coping the loose mortar bed was "chased" out with a pick

Once removed we see root infiltration on a level plane

Moving towards the spa we found that even with few to no roots visible the same "cracked" condition continued

 

As we work around the spa we started encountering roots again

 

Once past the spa the roots again dissipated but the separation continued

 In this case the roots came after the cracking occurred and this is evident by the fact that there are  areas where there is a crack with no roots present. That poses the question; what caused the crack if it was not the roots' fault? The engineering diagram below which we borrowed from the Pool Engineering Inc website shows the real culprit; an improperly constructed expansion join.

The illustration at lower right shows how the expansion joint failed to protect the pool from the deck due to the expansion material not extending the full depth of the deck thickness; during warm weather the expanding deck pushed on the pool and cause the  crack to occur along the weakest link, which in this case was a poorly adhered mortar bed into which the coping was set.

In the center of this picture you can see where the depth expansion joint ends far above the depth of the concrete deck itself. The deck was in physical contact with the mortar bed which caused the crack. Further compounding this scenario was the fact the the top of the pool wall was not sufficiently cleaned to allow proper bonding between the mortar bed and the pool wall prior to the mortar bed being set, but regardless of this fact this pool was doomed to failure.

In the left-center of this picture you can see where the concrete deck is in contact with remnants of the old mortar bed. The same is true for the "point" of the deck at the extreme lower left. Although the roots are invasive they did not cause the cracking; they merely came later to find an easy drink.

 To properly repair this pool we removed all of the coping around the entire pool and spa. New coping was installed with care taken to be certain that a new foam expansion joint was in place and extended the entire depth of the pool deck to allow for seasonal expansion of the deck. Once the coping was installed a mastic (special pool caulking) was applied at the top of the expansion foam to provide a flexible and weather-proof barrier to keep water out. Before the mastic cured we sprinkled clean #30 silica over the mastic to protect it from drizzle and critters while it cured and to give the appearance of mortar rather than plastic.

Concept to Completion Video

This video collage shows actual concept designs as presented to my client followed by a series of photos taken after construction to show how the project turned out compared to the initial concept. It gives me great pride that our construction team can turn dreams into reality. Let me build a dream for you.

My Pool is Overflowing - What Now??

Rain has hit us hard this past week with over 5 inches at my house in 5 days. Yesterday the water was at the bottom of my thick brick pool coping and today it is at the top. 2.25 inches of rain overnight. Also last night a good client of mine who had me build her a pool two years ago called to let me know her pool was nearly full and ask if there was anything she should do about it. Here is the cold, wet truth about pool water levels.

At my work we get calls every rainy season from several clients who are panicked because their pool is nearly full and it is still raining. Their fear is that once the pool overflows their whole backyard will flood. This is usually not the case. As long as your backyard could handle the rain if the pool WAS NOT EVEN THERE, then an overflowing pool will cause no additional flooding hazard. Water will not start pouring out of the pool once it reaches the top; the only water coming out will be exactly the amount which will fall on the pool as rain. If instead the pool is a runoff basin (which it should not be) then an overflowing pool could lead to enhanced flooding. If the pool is actually taking a load off of the drainage system, then once it can no longer help, the drainage system could be overwhelmed.

In most cases a properly built pool will be unable to cause property damage due to flooding. As a pool builder I CHOOSE the finished elevation of the pool with the potential for flooding in mind. Normally, if the pool is to be roughly at the same level as the home, we set the final elevation of the pool coping about 2 inches below the level of the home. That means that water would have to be 2 inches over the top of the pool coping before the house and its contents are in danger of flooding. We also make sure that decks are pitched away from the pool (not to prevent flooding but to keep pollen and algae spores out of the pool during rains) and away from the house. This creates a "valley" effect which should further keep both the pool and house safe. As long as there are no "dams" keeping the water in the backyard any floodwaters should be able to flow along the surface around the house long before getting inside. As a landscape designer I pay close attention to allowing unimpeded flow around the home, even if there is an underground drainage system.

In general there is no real danger to the pool itself if it is full to the brim. There can however be danger to any surrounding structures (including pool decks), especially if the pool is built on  expansive clay soils. On any pool, and especially an older pool, there is no guarantee that water will not find its way underneath the coping through small cracks or other passages through the bedding mortar which holds the coping in place. This joint is designed to be strong, but not necessarily waterproof as is the pool tile and pool interior. As such a completely full pool may be leaking water from below the coping and in the surrounding soils. If you have a concrete pool deck or any other structure adjacent to your pool you should take action if the pool is filled to the top. If the pool is allowed to sit full of water for an extended period of time water may get underneath the surrounding deck, and in areas of expansive soils this can lead to decks lifting, heaving, or cracking. These things happen when normally dry soils expand as they wet and exert extreme forces in the only direct that they can; upward. Once a deck has lifted, even by a small amount, it will usually not sink back to the original level. Cracks in concrete are of course undesirable and do not heal by themselves.

So now that we know about pools and flooding, how do we get excess water out of the pool? We can force it out or just let it evaporate by itself. If there is no danger to the house and no danger to the pool or deck (for example if you have no deck around your pool, just lawn) then there is no reason to do anything but let nature take its course. Evaporation will do all the work for you. If you do need to lower the water level in a hurry you can siphon it out with a garden hose, pump it out with a submersible pump, or pump it out using the pool pump. Regardless of the method you use it should be done fairly quickly to get the water level down at least an inch or two below the bottom of the pool coping.

You can easily set up a siphon made from a garden hose or two connected together as long as you have sufficient "fall" to get the siphon started. If you have a submersible pump it can be connected to a garden hose, which is run out to the street (or anywhere else that won't cause additional flooding). Another method is to use the pool pump to lower the water level. Some pool equipment sets will have a hose-bib plumbed into the piping at the equipment. Simply connect a garden hose to this hose bib and turn the pump on. Open the hose bib and pool water should be flowing out of the hose. It is also possible to "backwash" the filter (if your filter is the type that allows for "backwashing" and direct the wastewater into the street or other area that will not cause further flooding. remember to recharge the filter if you use this method. As a last resort, or if you are not comfortable doing any of the aforementioned methods, is to call your pool professional. We have several submersible pumps available for rent, or if you'd prefer for a small charge we can send a serviceman out to set the pump and collect it once the pool is down a bit.

The Truth About Owner Builder Pools in California (and around the world)

As a professional pool designer I am often told by a prospective client that he or she is considering putting in a pool but are torn between hiring someone to build the pool for them or doing the project as an owner/builder to save money. My response is usually quite frank and straight-forward. I ask the person if they have owned or had a pool built for them before, or if they are an experienced general contractor. Surprisingly most of the time the answer is no. At that point in my head I am wondering what in the world this person is thinking, but I bite my tongue. With no experience with a pool, pool construction, or negotiating contracts and integrating sub-contractors there is almost no way a layman can come up with a quality project and save money at the same time.

The owner/builder figures that if "all" of the money that I was to make on my professionally built swimming pool or spa stayed in their pocket then they would save a ton of money. They also assume that building a pool is a simple task, almost like assembling a "Boboli" pizza, and that they will be able to assemble a team of sub-contractors and direct them at or below the cost that I would charge for the same work. Lastly they believe that having pool building permit, and therefore a building inspector, means that only quality work will be done on their jobsite. In fact they are 100% wrong in all of these assumptions.

Firstly the pool and spa business is very competitive, and there are very few swimming pool builders out there who simply name their price however extravagant it is, and expect to get the job.  In fact, even most of the high quality builders have to keep their profit margins near the levels of the low quality, low price pool builders because the average swimming pool buyer has a very hard time distinguishing the difference between the good and the bad. In general it seems that the extra cost you pay to have an established and reputable company build you a pool versus having a "yesterday's superintendent" with just a truck and a cell phone is as low as 10-20 percent of the total job cost. Unless you are unemployed (in which case you really shouldn't be building a pool anyways) or  taking home less than what that recently laid-off superintendent wants to make (he is most likely uninsured or under-insured and not carrying workers compensation insurance) then what you pay him is exactly what you could earn yourself with a little more effort at the office. There just isn't "all that money" to be saved.

Secondly, building a swimming pool or spa is a lot more complicated than just fill a hole with water. Unless you've done it before and paid quite a bit of attention, there is a good chance you might miss something important during the building process. If you took apart your blender with no experience, then put it back together, if you screwed up there would most likely be a part or two left over or the case wouldn't close properly. With a pool that won't happen. It could look just perfect up until the day you put water in it. Sometimes it might look good even longer than that. However, unlike the blender which can be taken apart and reassembled countless times for no extra money, the pool only gets assembled once for the allotted cost. If you need to"take it apart" the dollars really start to ring up. For instance we occasionally get the call to finish a pool which was "abandoned" by a builder who went out of business or was fired during the course of construction. Most of the time they leave defective work behind. Even in these cases where the builder should have known what they were doing the cost of picking up the pieces and finishing the job put the budget over what the pool would have cost if initially contracted with us to begin with.

The last mistake made is assuming that working with experienced sub-contractors and having a permit, and thus a building inspector, equals having "quality control". I just looked at a pool job in Vista, California, which was being done owner/builder with an employee of the owner acting as superintendent. The call was to quote the cost of finishing the rockwork, tile, and plastering the pool. The pool had a large artificial rock waterfall/slide/grotto complex attached to the pool. Just looking from the outside of the rock structure I could tell that it wasn't properly built. I asked if they had a permit and engineering drawings for the rockwork and was told that they did. I reviewed the engineering and noted that there was no drawing that covered the rockwork at the size of the structure being built. The "super" told me that the building inspector had reviewed the work and approved everything. I then noticed that an access hole had been left at the rear of the structure, so I asked permission to go inside. Permission granted I entered. Peering up at what should have been a solid concrete ceiling I was astounded to see an awful lot of blue sky peeking back, and NONE of the reinforcing steel encapsulated within the concrete as specified in the onsite engineering plans. The concrete had been basically "draped" over the steel structure, which had been covered in burlap and chicken wire FROM THE OUTSIDE prior to the concrete being applied. In this case the reinforcing steel is not being protected from the elements and will eventually rust away. At that point the entire structure will collapse. In order to correct this mistake all of the concrete covering the structure needs to be removed and new concrete applied to full encase the steel, as per the plans. The client will end up paying twice for this structure. His mistake was to have an inexperienced supervisor and to rely on the building inspector for quality control. The funny thing is that the owner ended up hiring another sub-contractor under the supervision of his superintendent to coat over the structure as built who came in at about one hitrd of what I estimated to correct the issue. I'm expecting a call back to that address in about 4 or 5 years once the steel corrodes through.

I had another call in northern San Diego, California, to give an estimate for tile and coping on an owner/builder pool. In this case the pool was only "steeled" and had not been shot with concrete yet. I looked in wonder at the crudely twisted rebar, none of which was either straight, parallel, or perpendicular, which is what I am accustomed to seeing. The quality of workmanship was similar to some of the stuff my then 3 year old son was doing with pipe-cleaners at home. I asked the owner who had installed the rebar. He said that he had assisted his supervisor in doing the work themselves. I asked if the supervisor was a licensed pool builder and he answered that he was not, but that he "had worked for a pool builder before". He also assured me that the building inspector had been out and signed off on the work. I pointed to a rotting board in the soil underneath the pool floor. The owner said that there had been a vinyl liner pool there and that the wood was left from the steps of the old pool. So much for soils engineering and compaction. In this case I didn't bite my tongue and explained to the homeowner these and other defects that I saw. I told him he did not need a tile and coping estimate, but did in fact need someone to run his project. I let him know that we had a project that was just a few weeks from being where his was on that day, and told him I would invite him to take a look when we were there. Well, I did call that man about two weeks later, but he was not interested in coming out. I really think he didn't have the guts to tell his wife what a mess he had gotten them in.

In both of the above instances the owner really didn't save any money. Sure they didn't pay as much as they should have, but they got an inferior product. Both of the owners above will end up paying to refurbish their pools in the near future, and because they didn't make the smart decision upfront or put on the brakes when they still had a chance they will end up paying more than they should have for a still-inferior product, with all of the hassles and headaches that come in the meantime.

In summary, an owner/builder pool is not an impossible task, but it is not for the inexperienced. The risks outweigh the rewards most of the time. Unless you have vast experience as a general contractor or have built several pools with a quality builder in the past AND took the time to follow the process carefully, you will do better finding a builder you would like to work with and negotiating a fair price for your project under his direction.

FAQ's - Frequently Asked Questions

Q & A by Chuck Grosse, designer and project manager for Del Rancho Pools of Encinitas, California. Nov. 2010

Q) How long does it take to build a pool?

A) A typical inground pool takes about 6-8 weeks to build from the time we break ground. I have built pools in as little as 30 days, but that is not always the case. If your project involves more than just a pool it will most likely take longer.

Q) Does my project need a permit?

A) Not all projects need a permit. Simple remodels that do not involve additional gas or electrical work are normally exempt. New pool or spa projects do require building permits and inspections. At Del Rancho Pools we usually include the permits and permit fees in our contract price.

Q) How much does a pool cost?

A) A basic pool usually costs just under $30,000. A pool and spa combination starts at just over $40,000. There are, of course, options which can raise the price.

Q) Can you help me submit to my HOA?

A) I typically produce the types of drawings needed for HOA approval as part of a pool project. I ask that you fill in the forms for submittal and pay any fees they charge.

Q) Who can I hire to build a pool for me?

A) In California only a licensed pool builder, licensed general contractor, or licensed landscape contractor can write a contract for a swimming pool. If the builder is a general building contractor or landscape contractor he MUST have a licensed pool builder do the pool portion of the work. A licensed pool builder may only build the pool and is not licensed for additional work like decks, fireplaces, BBQ centers, etc. By law, this type of work must be performed by a landscape contractor or general contractor. At Del Rancho Pools we have both a General Building Contractor and a Pool Building Contractor license, which allow us to contract for complete "turn-key" projects or just the pool. We also have a Pool Maintenance license.

Q) I have a small yard. Can I still build a pool?

A) A pool or spa can be built in almost every yard. The size of the pool will be determined by the city “setbacks”, which is how close to the property line the city will let us build the pool. Setbacks are typically 4 or 5 feet but do vary from city to city.

Q) Do you remodel/refurbish pools?

A) Yes, we do pool remodels, everything from simple repairs to major renovations, including adding a spa or waterfall to an existing pool. Major pool renovations are one of our specialties at Del Rancho Pools.

Q) I have rust spots in my pool. Are they serious?

A) Rust spots may or may not be a serious issue. The source of the rust is the determining factor. It may just be a surface stain or it could indicate underlying structural problems. It is best to have a professional make an assessment.

Q) My tiles are cracked and loose. Is that a serious problem?

A) There are many causes for cracked or loose tiles. A professional should be asked to take a look to see what is causing the problem.

Q) My pool is losing water. Why?

A) All pools lose water to evaporation. If you are losing more water than normal evaporation then there could be a leak in your pool or pool plumbing. Several simple tests can be performed to see if it is just evaporation. Have a professional assess this situation to make sure it is nothing serious.

Q) The caulking around my pool between the coping and deck is old and falling out. How do I replace it?

A) That caulking is called “pool mastic” and is there to keep water from getting behind the pool and under the deck. It is very sticky stuff when wet and hard to clean up. It is not really a “do-it-yourself” type of job.

Q) How do I drain my pool?

A) Draining a pool should only be done under certain conditions. If you drain your pool at the wrong time you could cause serious damage to the pool. It is best to hire a professional to drain your pool. If you insist on doing it yourself, use a submersible pump. At Del Rancho Pools we rent high capacity submersible pumps by the day for your convenience. There may be regulations concerning where all that pool water goes, for example keeping the water out of storm drains, so check with your city before proceeding. 

Click here to see more articles by Chuck Grosse

Building a Pool in Mexico? Hazards and Defects Commonly Seen in Concrete Pools Built in Mexico?

A two part article authored by Chuck Grosse.

Part II: Construction Defects

In part one I outlined a variety of hazardous conditions I commonly find in pools I visit while vacationing in Mexico. While these observations do not mean that every pool in Mexico has these conditions it does indicate that the conditions are not being spotted during construction or during maintenance at the locations where I have seen them. Along with the physical hazards I also see quite a few “construction defects” some of which are more aesthetic in nature, but quite a few are the kind that mean the pool may not survive well. First I will mention some of the lesser of the evils, the aesthetic defect.

Cosmetic fit and finish is first in line. Stonework, tile work, and concrete deckwork seem to have their own standard in Mexico. A defect that would result in work being removed and replaced in the U.S. seem to pass inspection. Things like the quality of materials used, the size of grout joints between stone or tiles, how those joints are cleaned and finished, and material residue left on the finished product are the most obvious.

Many coping and deck materials seem to be fabricated “on-site” in the form of poured in place or pre-cast segment, and the materials used and finishes rendered are commonly inferior. Poor cement mixes lead to quick deterioration in the pool environment, so many pool copings and decks look old and tired almost immediately. In this case the investment quality materials would be a huge benefit to the end user, since the labor cost for installation, where huge savings can be found in Mexico, would remain basically unchanged. The pool designer should be specific in the materials of choice and the builder should follow the specs.

The all tile pool is extremely popular in Mexico, in part due to the fact that man-power is cheap, but also because the skilled crews needed to install plaster-type finishes are almost non-existent. Also a tile pool offers a nearly “lifetime” finish which can be repaired over and over again, if surplus tile is reserved for that purpose to avoid a mismatch. Fit and finish is the end-game of tile, and pools, because of their odd shapes and curved surface require particular attention to detail. Although grout is a necessary component of tile, the less grout used the better the job. By making accurate cuts and a tight with even gaps between the tiles a skilled worker leaves his mark.

At most every pool one can see “patch” repairs where off-colored tiles have been used to make some sort of repair on the interior of the pool. If only a bit of extra tile was ordered when the pool was built and properly stored for future repairs these patches would not exist. At Del Rancho Pools, where I work, we typically order a 10% waste factor since the tile is usually fairly inexpensive, then leave whatever surplus we have with the owner to store INDOORS so that the tile is usable at the time repairs become necessary.

At many projects irregular grout joints are everywhere, both in the pool and on the surrounding coping and masonry work. Pools projects tend to have a lot of grout involved in them, and several men, or sometimes several crews of men, will be needed to complete the installation in a reasonable length of time. The least skilled man or crew is what sets the projects’ standard, unless the supervisor demands better. It is the superintendent’s job to oversee the work and check for a uniform level of quality.

I also see a lot of poor workmanship in the way of grout clean-up at the time of installation. Grout is sloshed over the surface of the tiles and left to harden where it falls. You’d think that sponges and rags were in short supply. Here again the least skilled set the standard unless the foreman steps in.

The above mentioned cosmetic defects can all be stopped IF, and only, if the project foreman or superintendent sets the bar high enough for the finished product. Make sure your PM (project manager) understands your standard and communicates it down the line.

There are also defects that are not very visible but do affect the functionality of the pool or spa. Plumbing defects, pipe sizing, skimmer type and location, and equipment choices are the major players. Proper design and good project supervision will help end these plumbers pitfalls.

Spas built in Mexico tend to have the worst jets I have ever seen, with almost no force and no bubbles. If a spa is properly plumbed with all the pipes in the right places and has a pump sized for the number of jets installed there is no way to get weak jets with no bubbles. I seriously doubt that most of the Mexican pool plumbers have ever samples their own wares, understand how jets should work and feel, or been shown how a properly plumbed jet system show look. Pump sizing (to weak) and air (or lack of it) are the typical problems. Most spas will need a variable speed pump or a second spa jet pump to give good jet action. At most of the pools I’ve seen you’d be lucky to find one old, dilapidated, and undersized single speed pump. Along with a strong pump spa jets need air. Without it there is no vigorous massage action from the jets. The internal workings of the spa jets actually need the air and water to enter through separate ports to create a venturi effect in which the water “drags” additional air in, which in turn allows the water to travel faster out of the nozzle than it could by itself. This is what creates the “massage” action in the spa. Often it seems as thought the pipes get crossed underground with “air” pipes feeding water and “water” pipes pumping air. Once this happens the mis-routed water actually kills the venturi effect and the jet fails to draw in air. That causes the weak jets. There are also plumbing techniques unique to pool plumbers that actually help the venturi air reach the jet quicker and with less resistance. Although the spa plumbing is the responsibility of the plumber, it is also the job of an experienced supervisor to be able to look at the spa plumbing and intuitively know whether it will work properly before it is tested in the finished spa. If he is not certain it will work he should find out before the plumbing is encased in concrete.

In the U.S. pool builders have began to focus on properly sizing the plumbing of a pool to reduce water flow speeds within the pipes and thus improve energy efficiency. Hydrodynamics is a science in itself and a bit much to try to explain in this discussion, but let it suffice to say that in general a larger pipe is better than a smaller pipe, within limits. In the U.S. it used to be that 2-inch diameter pipe was considered large enough for nearly every application. Now that standard has moved up a notch or two and pipe sizes of 2.5-inches to 3-inches are the norm, with pipes of 4-inches and even 6-inches not un-common. In my travels I often see pipe sizes of 1.5-inches and sometimes even less at many of the pools. I have rarely seen pipes over 2.5-inches in diameter. Larger pipe sizes not only offer better energy efficiency but can also improve equipment lifespan, but are actually thicker walled and more durable in the ground. Here the pool designer must specify the size of pipes to be used for the various pool systems and the PM or builder must follow through to make sure the plumber does not make substitutions in the field based on his common-knowledge.

The function of a pool skimmer is a mystery to many in Mexico, and its form and placement is mostly an after-thought. Most pools and spa have at least one skimmer, and often more are needed depending upon the plumbing configuration and number of pump systems installed. In the U.S. multiple skimmers per pump are now the norm and they are typically place to help with pool circulation and to strategically capture floating debris in a variety of weather patterns. Most are commercially fabricated from plastic with hinged “weir” gates to keep debris inside once captured and removable baskets to keep debris out of the pump and allow for easy cleaning of the basket. In Mexico skimmer placement seems arbitrary at best with the skimmer often located as close to the pool equipment as possible. While this will reduce the amount of pipe used in construction it is usually not the best location to capture debris. Also many are “custom built” out of concrete with no weir gate or basket at all. This means that skimming action may not be happening, and that if debris that enters the skimmer it will ultimately fill the pump basket (or clog the pump), further reducing circulation. Remember that circulation is key to sanitation and without it sanitation is not possible. A properly designed plumbing system with the correct number of skimmers and their positions carefully noted is necessary. The builder needs to understand the importance of this system and install it per plan.

At its most basic a pool needs a pump and filter to stay clean. The pump moves that water through the filter and the filter removes particles from the water. In Mexico nearly every pool is just that, basic. The problem is that along with being basic the pump and filter are also small. Way too small. A pool filter needs to be sized for the pool it filters AND for the maintenance it receives. If a filter gets cleaned weekly it needs to be able to filter a weeks worth of particles. If a pool gets used a lot it needs a bigger filter and/or more maintenance. So many times I have seen a filter that would be considered too small for a residential pool in the U.S. installed on a commercial pool with quadruple the bather load in Mexico. That same filter is also of an older model and by just looking at it you can tell that it rarely if ever gets cleaned. Some of these filters are so old and in such condition that merely disassembling them for cleaning would be their end. At the same time some of these older and undersized filters are paired with an older and undersized pump. How a tired old pump could get water through a clogged up filter is a wonder to me, but I bet it doesn’t happen. Here again the designer needs to understand how much use a pool will get as well as how often maintenance will be done. The designer will then be able to determine what size filter is needed and pair that with the appropriate sized pump. Again don’t let the builder let his experience be his guide; it is your custom pool.

Of course custom pools almost always have more equipment than just a pump and filter. Booster pumps, heater, sanitation systems, solar systems, and pool controllers are all possible components in your project. Each of these components will mesh with the others to form a complex pool equipment set and should be tailored for your needs. Let your designer help you with these choices and make sure again that your builder follows the specifications without un-approved field substitutions.

So far I have talked about many kinds of construction defects, but the ones I will now mention are the real deal. We are talking things that will literally cause a pool to break. Things like engineering, soil, rock, concrete, and steel. If these items get screwed up the ones above will not even matter.

Many of the pools which are built in Mexico are designed by an architect with only the aesthetics in mind. It is left up to the builder to determine how to implement the design chosen from a structural standpoint. Building permits may be issued but often do not include the engineering and inspection aspects that we are used to in the U.S. The permit is more of a way for the local government to document and tax the construction than a method to assure quality. Inspections often occur only once a project is completed. Whether or not the engineering aspects of the project are addressed is not an issue for the authorities.

With that said I must note that is nearly opposite of the U.S. process. Pool permits in  California are typically obtained by submitting pool plans and corresponding engineering designs together to the city building department for review. Once approved the construction process is inspected at key points for compliance with the approved plans and engineering. This process ensures that design and engineering work together for the benefit of the pool. In Mexico it is up to the buyer and ultimately the builder to ensure that the desired level of construction quality is upheld. The buyer often knows nothing about pools, so must then rely on the architect and builder to do what is best.

In Mexico they build pools just about anywhere. On flat land, a sloping hillside, or the side of a cliff overlooking the sea. Although each of these is a potential pool location, each site is unique. Each has it’s own engineering concerns and needs to be treated differently. If the sites are treated the same then some of the pools might fail (crack or break). My observation is that often the very same construction techniques and materials are used to build the pool on a cliff that are used to build a pool on flat land, and I have seen the consequences. From my room once in Puerto Vallarta my view was down towards the beach where a half-filled pool sat with a big wet stain on the exposed pool wall facing the bay. The pool had not been designed properly for the exposed wall and the wall had cracked. That pool needed to be removed and rebuilt if the owner wanted a pool. I was told the pool had been in that condition for several years.

In the U.S. it is up to a soils engineer to determine whether a site can support a pool and what loads the soils can handle. He can also determine if the site can be improved to support a larger load. Once the soils have been analyzed that information is given to the structural engineer, along with the pool design showing the location of the pool relative to the site. The structural engineer then determines how the concrete and rebar will be arranged to give the pool the strength it needs for its soils conditions. The builder must then follow the engineering plans during the construction process. We, as builders, rely on our structural engineers to let us know what sized bars go where and how thick the walls need to be for the desired strength and the site’s soils conditions.

My experience in observing construction using concrete and reinforcing steel (rebar) in Mexico is that the relationship between the two that provides strength to structure built from these materials is not well known by the tradesmen themselves. There is a required balance needed for the relatively brittle concrete and the flexible steel to unite into a strong yet forgiving structural media. It seems as though the “common practice” in Mexico is routinely accepted as sufficient regardless of the project or site conditions. Compared to U.S. standards most construction has too little concrete and not enough or under-sized rebar.

The only solution here is to demand that U.S. standards for soils engineering and structural engineering be followed in the construction of your pool. Your builder and supervisor must know how to read engineering plans and how to implement the various details included at the proper places in the project. If they cannot do this they cannot build you the pool as designed.

In conclusion I want to make it clear that not all pools built in Mexico are poorly designed or under-built, but that quite often the standards most pool builders in the U.S. are accustomed to are not followed. This may result in just a small inconvenience, but could also be much worse. If you intend to build a pool in Mexico and expect it to be built like a pool would be built in the U.S. you may be disappointed unless you find a designer and builder/supervisor who is experienced with the U.S, standards and is able to convey those to the workers and follow through during the construction process. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me via e-mail.

Chuck Grosse

Pool Designer and Project Manager

PoolManChuck@gmail.com

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Building a Pool in Mexico? Hazards and Defects Commonly Seen in Concrete Pools Built in Mexico.

A two part article authored by Chuck Grosse.

Part I: Hazardous Conditions

Prelude: I started this project a few days ago and decided to break it into two parts for ease of reading. The following is part one with part two to follow shortly.

As an experienced pool builder it is hard to keep my eye off of pools wherever I am. As a pool designer, pool construction supervisor and a pool project manager I still appreciate the beauty of design, colors and shapes and settings, but I find myself always drifting my eye towards the same things that make all of the pools I participate in a bit more than standard. I can’t manage not to look at the smaller details when looking at a pool, no matter how many Pacific coast margaritas or Caribbean mojitos I have swallowed. I also see projects under construction, not actively seeking them out but rather, allowing my interest in observing how the Mexican people are uniquely different from Americans to lead the way.

Please don’t get me wrong here. There is nothing bad about being different, and that interest in those differences is what actually brought me to Ensenada, Baja California Sur on that fateful afternoon nearly 20 years ago and put me in the famous Hussongs Bar. On that day I spotted my now-to-be wife, who was visiting a school-girl friend of hers, sitting on a bar-stool and nervously giggling with those other two lovely girls. I asked if I could get them a drink, and from that moment on the rest is history. We now have two beautiful children, a boy and a girl, and live in northern San Diego County near the beach. At my house, although my wife speaks perfectly good English, we speak two languages. She speaks to me and the kids in Spanish, and I speak to her and the kids in English. Of course the kids speak English at school, but none-the-less we are a completely bilingual family. It did help that I studied 4 years of Spanish in middle school and college, and that in my early days of work I was in both restaurants and construction. I think a true measure of mastery of a language, at least in the conversational sense, is to be able to listen to that language on the radio. Without the visual clues of body language and facial expression, if you can hang with the topic and comprehend the conversation you can be pretty sure you’ve got it down. Well, as a family we “have it down” in both English and Spanish, thanks to my curiosity and that one fateful day.

Well today I am in the pool business, or that is what most people think.  Whatever they want to think, I am actually in the business of providing fun. What could be more fun than having that same resort feel you get when visiting a five star hotel right in your own backyard? I mean if you could actually vacation everyday, just by walking through the front door could life really get any better?

At the same time my wife is in the travel business, and we make sure to take advantage of all the perks that come with that. Because of her Mexican roots, and the fact that she has family there we always seem to be looking to visit Mexico at least twice a year. We also tend to not visit the same area twice, and if we do we still plan our visit to explore new places wherever we go. We’ve been to Zihuatanejo, Ixtapa, Morelia, Colima, Merida, Progresso, Cancun, La Paz, Mazatlan, Manzanillo, Puerto Vallarta, Puerto Aventuras, Veracruz, and Los Cabos, plus a lot of other smaller places in between.

Our most recent trip, just a few weeks ago in late October of 2010, took us to the southern tip of Baja to the city of Cabo San Lucas and the city of La Paz. At the airport we rented a car to get around, and in one weeks’ time we actually hotel hopped across the peninsula staying in three different hotels. One was and older but nicer place in La Paz, and two were nearly brand new four-star resorts in Los Cabos. Of course all three had really nice pools. At least that is the impression that 99 and 44/100 percent of the guest staying there believed. I can’t really say that they were not in fact really nice swimming pools. They were great places to swim, and one of them even had such high-tech features as a “beach” entry and “wet-edge” spa. It looked like everyone was having a really good time both in and around the pools. I could see that, but I could also see more.

At one of the pools I first entered the water at the beckoning of my kids, who were thrilled by the pool, actually at the last resort stop of the trip, because the main feature is a large waterfall and 40-foot long waterslide. I did not climb into the pool, nor jump in head-first. Instead I put down my ice-cold mojito and trudged up two flights of stairs to the top of the slide. There my kids were jumping up and down and telling me of their previous 30 trips each down the slide. We had only been there for about 30 minutes, but you know how kids are. I step up to the edge of the slide and looked down the throat of the beast. It took a long slow curve to the left and I could not see the pool or where the slide entered the pool. How could I go down the slide safely if I couldn’t see the water I was landing in. Oh well. I yelled “clear” hoping that would get anyone down there out of the way, and sat down. Now my feet were being sprayed by the water sloshing down the slide. Just beyond my feet were two areas of blistered slide paint, with sharp raised edges, right in the middle of the slide. There was no way to maneuver around those blisters, so I pulled my bathing suit up and down, at the same time and eased forward. Down the slide I went. It was a nice fast ride with good acceleration, just what the kids wanted. Near the bottom the pool came into view and the water was clear. There was no stopping me anyways, but I was sure happy not to see granny and a baby treading water at the rate I was going. The impact wasn’t too bad, and I popped up and swan to the nearest edge, where a swim ladder was conveniently located which would place you near the slide stairs once you exited the pool. I reached up for the ladder and found the notches in the wall for my feet and gave a pull to lift my body out of the water. As my body weight went on the ladder both of the rungs were loose and they wiggled so much it was almost hard to hold on to them. It didn’t stop me from getting out and head back up the slide stairs to see what my kids had to says, but it did attract my attention and make me think about what other minor, or major construction defects might there be at this particular pool. Now sure a bit of chipped paint, and a slightly obstructed view, and a loose ladder aren’t the end of the world, but……we just got there. Within 30 minutes at the pool and without even looking I found three things that would be major “show-stoppers” on one of my projects, here at a four star resort and cosmetically the finest of the three hotels we visited on that trip. Later I’ll describe to you other “problems” I have seen that appear to be nearly endemic in the construction of inground pools south of the border and suggest how you can avoid including these mistakes in your project.

I see clearly three types of problems in Mexico that are evident in pools during or post construction. At this point I am not trying to identify things like difficulties in selecting a contractor, contractual or legal issues, language and cultural barriers, or baffling bureaucracy of Mexico. The above mentioned issues could and should be addressed in a separate discussion. Right now we are going to focus on the pool itself, as a product, not a construction experience.

If you plan on building a pool in Mexico you should pay close attention to my observations. Pool builders in Mexico do not seem focused on safety or quality of design (aside from cosmetic design) in their construction process. When building a pool in Mexico, or anywhere for that matter, a safe product with a solid foundation should be mandatory.

Firstly there are deal breaker problems. These are things that can cause severe injury or death. They come in the form of electrical hazards, suction/drowning related hazards, and use related hazards (i.e. cuts, abrasions, and falls). There are also conditions that are not really deal breakers so to speak, but still conditions of warranted concern. These are defects or deficiencies in design and/or construction that either put the pool itself at risk, or reduce its efficiency, or both. Most are either related to the pool structure itself or in the plumbing and electrical systems, or in equipment selection and installation. Although these don’t really risk life or limb they do pose a huge financial risk if it becomes necessary to correct these types of problems during construction or in an already completed or existing pool. Lastly there are cosmetic defects, which related both to the physical appearance of the pool, its positioning and style, or how it affects the ambience of the pool environment. Here we are talking about mostly visual defects, but occasionally audible sounds or noises, or even foul smells.

I’ll start with the deal breakers. Electrical hazards, drowning hazards, and fall/cut/abrasion risks are the biggest problems that I typically notice, mostly because as a responsible father of two young kids I really keep my eye open for these foremost. At almost every pool I visit I see deal breakers or near deal breakers, which are things that we would never allow at my company and are things that we actively look for at our clients homes and correct as quickly as possible when found.

Let’s start with the various electrical hazards. The lack of GFCI protected circuitry, bare or exposed electrical wires and poor grounding along with electrical outlets, electrical cords, wiring, and electrical appliances too close to the water for safety lead the list here. I am not suggesting that these types of hazards are absent in US built pools, but I will say that current US pool building standards DO NOT permit these types of conditions to exist.

 In California (and the U.S. as a whole I believe) we have to protect all pool lighting circuits with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) which will cut off electrical supply to the pool light if short circuit conditions exist or if the grounding wire is broken. Although I have not had much of an opportunity to check on the GFCI’s of the pools I have seen, I do know for a fact that GFCI protection is very rare in Mexico and is not the industry standard (at least common practice) in that country. It seems that nowhere in Mexico is anyone familiar with the uniform electrical code standards for swimming pools (as used in the US).

Another common problem is the use of extension cords to feed electrical devices near the pool. At almost every pool I find electrical cords snaking through the landscape to provide power to something, All it takes is one wet hand to touch a frayed cable or for that cable to somehow find its way into the pool and you are in for a shocking surprise. Although this hazard is not directly related to the construction of the pool itself most of these cords could be eliminated if electrical outlets were properly distributed around the pool in anticipation of their need. At my company, Del Rancho Pools, we call this solution planning ahead.

Almost as common is the use of 120 volt lighting close to the pool water. In the US the only electrical devices allowed in the pool are UL listed pool lights which have redundant electrical safety built in to them. We are also required to keep all electrically powered items at least ten feet from the pool water, even landscape lighting. In Mexico, and even fairly regularly in the U.S., I can always find an “uplight” with a broken or missing cover-plate right next to the pool water which is strategically lighting a nearby palm.. Much of this lighting is un-maintained with missing protective covers and bare wires common. Also many of these lighting circuits in Mexico lack a “ground” wire and GFCI protection, which is standard in the US and helps offer an electrical layer of shock hazard protection. Following the Uniform Building Code for Pool Electrical Installation will solve all of these potentially deadly hazards.

Although swimming pools almost by definition are a “drowning hazard” what I am referring to is actually “suction entrapment hazard” caused by the pool pump itself. In the US current law requires any suction point in a swimming pool or spa to have dual points of suction, so that if one point of suction is covered the other point of suction will continue to feed the pump water. If there were just a single suction point whatever blocked the opening would be held to the opening by a strong suction force. This force is strong enough to hold almost anyone, including a grown man, underwater. In Mexico almost no pools offer dual suction points and in some cases no protective grate or cover is present to reduce the hazard of a single inlet.

Once in Manzanillo we were staying at a place that had a waterslide which ran from an upper “starting” pool which overflowed and then spilled down the slide into the main pool about 10 feet below. The feed pipe to the upper pool was in the middle of the floor and the water was about 8” deep. We (my son who was two at the time and I) were using the slide when suddenly I noticed that the overflowing had stopped and a small whirlpool was forming over the feed pipe. That seemed like an odd thing and my curiosity caused me to put my palm over the pipe to see if I could stop the little whirlpool. As soon as my hand covered the pipe a strong suction force held my hand to the pipe and began pulling on the center of my palm. Fortunately the pipe diameter was small enough so that with moderate effort I was able to pull my hand free. Once free I looked at my palm to find a 2” diameter bulge in the center of my palm and some broken blood vessels indicating the beginning of what could have been a large blood blister. Had I been a child, or if it had been my mouth, eye, or rear end over the pipe instead of the tough skin of my palm, the outcome could have be worse and possibly gruesome (on more than one occasion a child has been disemboweled in the U.S. by sitting atop a suction hazard like this one). The cause of the suction at the point of feed, which would not normally be expected, was a power failure in the resort that caused the pump to stop pumping and allowed water to flow backward through the system. A check-valve of the type we normally install in the U.S. for most raised water-features would have prevented the suction and whirlpool from forming. An approved drain cover over the pipe would have kept my hand from being “sucked in” by the pipe. Neither were installed in this hotel’s “commercial” grade pool. Aside from this one occasion I have had no other personal incidents, but have rarely seen an installation that would pass a California based building inspection.

Injury hazards, specifically cuts, abrasions, and falls another problem which you do see in U.S. pools but seems to be taken to the next level in Mexico. Loose handrails, sharp corners, high platforms, and poor workmanship are all culprits. Since lawsuits are uncommon there is little motivation to prevent injury, especially minor to moderate injury, in Mexico. While I’m sure that no one wants someone to be injured, with no motivation to be vigilant there is little oversight to minimize the risks. To reduce injury hazards of the type listed here it really gets more personal, where design and supervision, with an eye for safety, can really make a difference. I have seen tall platforms where kids play adjacent to concreter deck surfaces with little or nothing in the way of railings to prevent falls. Most recently a barrier with openings at least 18” wide separated the start pool of the waterslide from a 10-foot vertical drop off of a waterfall platform to pool and deck. Twice in the past two years I have cut my feet on “pebble” pool finishes which appeared to be formulated by sharp-edged local pebbles rather than “water-smoothed” commercial products. Slick decking surfaces are commonly installed, even in commercial applications near kiddie pools. On many occasions I have seen slick “stamped concrete” or even polished marble or limestone in a poolside application. I could continue on and on, but the point here is that although any project could have these types of hazards a well design and well implemented project probably won’t; it will either be designed out or spotted during construction and corrected by a competent design/build team.

The point of this article is not to scare you from building a pool in Mexico nor from using a Mexican building partner to build your pool. The point is to make sure you let them know what your expectations are as far as design, planning, and quality control to make sure you end up with a quality pool which will last a lifetime without taking one along the way. If you want to be sure you get a pool built to current U.S. standards then hire a competent designer and let him (or her) set the standards for your pool clearly on the table. Then make sure your builder of choice is familiar with the standards you set and capable of implementing them. If needed hire a pool building consultant, even if it is just to stop buy at several of the critical stages of the project when corrections can still be made. If you are still in doubt hire a project manager to oversee the project through all of its phases. In pool construction the most difficult thing to fix is a finished pool.

Part II – Construction Defects coming soon

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